One Day: Phuket to Chiang Mai, Thailand, originally uploaded by LeeLeFever_TwinF.

6am - Awoke with a wake up call from reception. Lee regrets not brushing teeth after pre-bed Oreo snack. Shower and finish packing.

6:35am - Walk to free (or included) breakfast. Yoghurt, pineapple, meusli, toast for Lee; rice and pineapple for Sachi.

6:50am - Pay final bill at checkout. An extra night plus 2 lunches and a couple of minibar indiscretions = about US$100. Karon Beach Resort was a bit of a splurge.

6:55am - Go outside assuming we would see taxis or car-like tuk-tuks. None are found, feel at-risk for missing flight. Go back to hotel reception, she calls their driver- he cannot come for 20 mins- not enough time (he says) to make our flight. Bell boy takes off on motorcycle to track down taxi (earns nice tip).

7:03am - Aging Alpha Romeo taxi appears. We climb in and find that we could have saved money by using the hotel minivan. Feel regret for not accepting the hotel's offer yesterday.

7:52am - Arrive at airport, check in, buy Rough Guide to SE Asia.

8:25am - Board bus to plane and wait for 20 minutes on stationary bus. Travel approximately 150 meters to plane. Laugh with other passengers about the ridiculously short bus trip.

8:50am - Board plane to Bangkok.

10:28am - Arrive Bagkok, recheck in for Air Asia flight to Chiang Mai. Find infinite amusement is witnessing a women scurry rapidly from her family to ensure a place in line in front of us- for a flight leaving in 2 hours.

11:22am - while waiting for flight, try to connect to airport wireless internet. Costs US$7 per hour. No way - too much. Domestic terminal lunch options are: Burger King, Smoking Pub, Black Canyon Coffee and Dairy Queen. We have Whoppers.

1:05pm - Discover that flight is delayed 1 hour. Meet Sonja, who just graduated high school and has lived in Chang Mai for 5 years.

2:10pm - Board flight to Chang Mai on low-cost Air Asia (US$38PP). Feel pressure to compete for unassigned seats. Share our row with Sonja, who is 1/2 Iranian and 1/2 white American and has lived in Atlanta, Swaziland, Cambodia and Thailand. Really cool to talk to Sonja. She recommends the Amora Hotel and even has a business card.

3:55pm Arrive at aging but nice Amora hotel, reserve 5 nights for about US$40 per night, breakfast included.. Great location. Relax and plan.

5:05pm - Walk blindly into Chiang Mai streets, quickly discover a neighborhood full of uninteresting house fixtures. Find better street, eat at Noi's Kitchen, buy book on Pol Pot. Return to hotel.

6:09pm - Lee is awed to see this text scroll across the TV screen on BBC World News: "Microsoft blogger who made the software giant more human is leaving to join a technology startup". Scoble made the BBC World ticker? Wow.

7:12pm - Sachi dissects our toiletries bag and finds 31 miniature toothpaste bottles from Japanese hotels (pictured above). We realize a great travel tip: If you have more than one of something, use it up completely before opening the next. Otherwise you carry mutiples forever (like both of Lee's half-full mini shaving cream bottles).

8:05pm - Head out to the THC Rooftop Bar, cool hippy atomsphere and uncool unhippy staff- no smiles at all. Have dinner for 3 dollars (panang curry beef, oyster sauce beef and pineapple shake).

9:55pm - Return to hotel to settle in watching US play Czechs in world cup, feeling good about Chaing Mai.

11:59pm - Feel disappointment for USA's poor showing. Sad to see so much ball possession, so little goal scoring.

Like many travelers, we understood that Japan would be an expensive place in which to travel.  After spending a month in the country, we’d like to provide our perspectives on how much travel costs for tourists in Japan.  All prices are in American dollars.

In visiting any country as a tourist there are 5 costs that must be considered: 

1. Arrival - The cost of getting there (and leaving)
2. In-Country Transportation- The cost of moving around within the country
3. Lodging- The cost of having a place to sleep each night
4. Food and Alcohol- Keeping the belly full
5. Tourist Activities- Seeing and Doing

Unfortunately, the first 3 of the 5 costs for Japan are likely the highest you’ll pay in almost any country- but there are some ways around the high expense.

1. Arrival – It is generally expensive to fly into Japan from anywhere in the world.  However, there are places in the world that serve as major hubs and you may find that departing from these hubs can reduce the costs. We bought a round trip ticket from Bangkok to Tokyo for about $650 per person, even during Japan’s holiday season (Golden Week- April 25^th- May 5^th).  We hadn’t seen any tickets under $1,000 other than the ones we purchased.  The best advice is to plan ahead, be prepared and jump on any tickets that are below your expectations.

2. In-Country Transportation - This one is an absolute no-brainer.  Japan has an amazingly safe, efficient and comfortable rail system that serves almost the whole country.  If you plan to travel to more than one or two cities it is essential that you purchase a “Japan Rail Pass” or “JR Pass”.  You must get the JR Pass before you leave - you CANNOT get one in Japan. The JR Pass web site has listings for ticket agents worldwide.  We bought a standard 14 day pass for $391 per person.  That seems like a lot, but once you start seeing how much inter-city train travel costs, you’ll be glad you have the pass.  For instance, a one way trip from Tokyo to Kyoto on the Shinkansen bullet train costs about $200 per person.  We figure that our JR Pass paid for itself within the first week of our trip.  Taxis are rather costly too and we took them very rarely.  In Tokyo, the charges start at about $5 and can quickly rise to over $50 on a late night trip home (subways stop around midnight). Further, most major cities have subways (not covered by the JR Pass) that cost $1-$3 point-to-point

3. Lodging – Tourist lodging in Japan can be a complex mix of western rooms vs. Japanese style rooms, regular hotels vs. business hotels, ryokans vs. hotels and hostels.  Hostels offer the lowest rates ($20-50 per person) and the high end reaches to thousands of dollars.  On the whole, staying in hotels in Japan is an expensive affair, with 2-3 star western-style rooms costing $70 per night or more for two people. Often there are different prices for the number of people, enabling a single traveler to find a cheaper room.  For $80-$120 you get the regular hotel amenities (TV, A/C, bathroom, tea, breakfast, etc.) along with some Japanese treats like a yukata (robe), slippers, a shoe horn, disposable toothbrush, etc.  Near most train stations are “business hotels” which lack character, but have convenient locations, basic amenities (plus in-room Internet connection) and a decent price.  We found business hotels to be useful and easy for our travels in Japan and usually paid between $60-$80 per night.  If you want the Japanese experience of staying in a ryokan (traditional Japanese traveller’s lodge), we suggest going to a nice one and paying the $200 for the whole experience.

4. Food and Alcohol - Aside from the basics listed above there are other costs that should be considered.  Food, of course, tops the list.  Food is one thing in Japan that offers a number of choices for different travelers.  It is possible to eat street-side noodles or a rice bowl meal for less than $4 dollars and then walk around the corner to a tempura restaurant that is $100 per person. Like many things in Japan, you pay for the experience.  Also, as a TwinF member mentioned, there are great choices in the convenience stores, like 7-11, which have delectable sushi rolls for about $2.  We found nearly all food, cheap or expensiv,e to be delicious, fresh and of high quality.  Also, you will surely drink your weight in Japanese tea, which is generally served free of charge.  The Japanese must consume more beer per capita than any other country.  Beer is sold everywhere and the prices are quite reasonable, depending on your drinking habits. A can of beer is usually about $2 from a vending machine and a draft beer in a restaurant is about $3-4.  Sake is also very popular and the prices vary widely based on reputation and quality, like wine.

5. Tourist Activities - One of the wonderful things about Japan is that by simply being there, your tourist ambitions are fulfilled.  Walking the streets, riding the trains and sitting in parks all offer the tourist a view into the quirky and entertaining culture – free of charge.  You will pay for entrance into castles, some temples and shrines, etc.  These are usually between $5-10 per person. On the whole though, tourist activities in Japan are not prohibitively expensive and the most rewarding things are free.

So, to answer the question: Is Japan Expensive?  We would say yes.  We spent about $200-250 per day, all inclusive.   Compared to a place like Thailand, Japan is 3-4 times more expensive on a day-to-day basis.  But, the expense is the cost of admission to experience a truly unique, sophisticated and beautiful country that is extremely safe, clean and very rich in culture.  It was well worth our money.

Welcome to the Rainy Season, originally uploaded by LeeLeFever_TwinF.

We expected to see more of this kind of weather on the horizon, as it is officially monsoon season in Thailand. However, we have not seen daytime rain at all until today.

I have to give Sachi major props for today's events so far. Our bungalow is about a 20 minute walk to the pier. We originally planned to take the free longtail (open air) boat to the pier at 1pm. Looking out over the water at 12:30 Sachi insisted that we get our bags and hoof it to a place as close to the pier as possible. We did it.

As I write this, it is 1:01pm and the rain is coming down in sheets and we sit in a restaurant only meters from the pier waiting it out dry and happy. Sachi saved us once again.

If someone were to visit the Thai island of Ko Phi Phi with no knowledge of the tsunami in 2004, they might not ever notice that it was the scene of real devastation. The natural beauty, the wonderful people and the island atomosphere are well intact. Though the final toll may never be known, 75% of the buildings were destroyed and about 2000 people were killed in the tsunami, including about 1200 that are listed as missing. Wikipedia has more info.

Ko Phi Phi has a rather vulnerable geographic position that caused both sides of the most populated area to be hit by the wave.  This video simulation shows how the wave hit.  The biggest concentration of people was in the tiny isthmus (150 meters wide) between the two islands at the  top. 

Just as you get off the pier at Ton Sai beach, you notice some fields to the left with no buildings.  Before the tsunami, these fields had high end bungalows, all of which were destroyed and/or swept away. This photo is looking aross the isthmus looking between Ton Sai Beach towards Loh Dalam Bay where resorts and bungalows used to be.

 As you might imagine, there are signs and warning systems everywhere now.

 Apparently the relief effort was centered at Carlito's Bar, which is down the beach a few hundred meters and spared.  We heard a story that Carlito himself perished while trying to save others. We met an American that owns a group of used book stores (D's Books) and he showed us the level where the water came into his store (though he didn't own it then). 

Despite some controversy, reconstruction is well underway.  We found the island to be clean and mostly debris free.  

There are sure signs of quick recovery, though, as visitors, we can only know so much. Last night we walked by the small school grounds and there was some sort of festival going on.  About 75 kids were all dancing in the courtyard under lights and corporate sponsored tents, surely donated for relief.  The kids were having such fun, dancing and horsing around- smiles everywhere.  I couldn't help but wonder what mark the tsunami might have left on these kids and how they are coping.  Like everyone that lives here, I'm sure the scars will take a while to heal, but for last night and for our whole time here, people seem to be more focused on the future than the past. Seeing those kids so happy gave me a good feeling that recovery, in a number of forms, is well underway.

If you're thinking of going to Phi Phi, we highly recommend it.  Your tourist dollars do a lot for the local economy and it is an incredibly beautiful place.  This is a panorama of Loh Dalam Bay:

I think we overdosed on the Internet access in Japan, as we always had a connection in our room.  I could revert to my habitual surfing.  Once we landed in Thailand, I had an Internet hangover and I haven't shared pictures in a while, so this is a chance to catch up a bit. 

It's rather strange to return to a place like Thailand or Phuket.  My camera doesn't seem to be drawn to the same things.  The world is not uniquely new to me, like it is for the first visit. Nevertheless, it is still a wonderful place to be. 

 We spent a few days in Bangkok, at our old home at the Asia Hotel. If anyone wants to see some Thai quirk, go there any night for dinner (MRT Stop: Ratchatewi).  The Elvis impersonator is there nightly and is fun to watch.

 You can see from the sweat the he's working hard.  Speaking of sweat, the traffic police must have the hottest job in Bangkok, complete with face mask:

 Even the dogs can hardly stay awake.

 Next was Phuket, where we met Kris and Robert (and tried to get certified for diving). We went to a Thai boxing match with them and here is Robert with "the champ", who is actually only there for pictures.

Since Phuket doesn't really do it for us, we decided to replace the days that I would have been learning to dive with a few days on Phi Phi Island (Known for beautiful scenery, the movie "The Beach" and tsunami devastation).  Kris and Robert are hopefully going to come meet us here after Kris is certified.  We really hope they do, as Phi Phi is another world compared to Phuket.

 Being a secluded island, we thought Phi Phi might be too expensive, too crowded and not what we want, but we've found it to be very cool and a good value.  It has the laid-back island vibe and it is an amazingly beautiful place.

 I plan to write more about the tsunami's effect on Phi Phi soon.  It really seems that the island has fully recovered.  In fact, this little guy makes me wonder if tiny aliens have not invaded recently.

Dissed on the Dive, originally uploaded by LeeLeFever_TwinF.

Sachi and I considered getting Scuba certified many times over and never did it. Hooking up with Robert Scales (a dive master) and Kris Krug in Thailand, it came upon the radar once again. Kris and I would take 4 days and get certified for diving. Or so we thought.

The dive center offered us a nice $10 room for the 4 days and Kris and I were doing the paperwork when a problem arose. I could not participate for health reasons. Both my lungs collapsed in a car accident in high school and such a history requires a chest scan and doctors signature- which requires many hours of travel.

When asked about a history of collapsed lungs, I put a "Y" in the box instead of a "N". Sure, I could have put an "N" and hoped for the best, but I think that is irresponsible. I do not take my health for granted. Putting a "Y" on that line ensured that I'm not in a trip-ending type of situation. We have learned to be cautious about what we call "trip enders". No one wants to go home early, and especially not because we dove into the shallow end of a pool.

So, it sucks not getting certified and I know Kris is a bit lonely in class (just him and instructor), but it's all good. The PADI paperwork did a good job of making my health the first priority and for that I am thankful.

Plus, I suddenly have a few days free. Right now we have exactly zero plans- not for lunch, where we will be tomorrow night, next week or next month- a kind of limbo that is both liberating and worrisome at the same time. We haven't seen Northern Thailand yet, or Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam or China, so planning is in order, maybe a little anyway.

Currently Reading, originally uploaded by LeeLeFever_TwinF.

Throughout the trip I have been consuming one book after another. I set out to make the trip more interesting by reading books about the places we plan to visit and to varying degrees I've succeeded in that so far.

I started by leaving home with one-third read "Blink" by Malcolm Gladwell. The first international book was chosen in a bookshop in New Zealand on a bit of a whim. I went in considering a book about Capt. James Cook and left with the book "Genghis Khan" by John Man. I read this book aloud to Sachi while in our rented campervan and we both enjoyed it immensely. We knew so little about the legendary man before and now we're hoping to see the Mongolian steppe (Ghengis' home) later this summer.

Next we bought a couple of smaller books in Australia (not a cheap place to buy books): A Travellers History of Japan and a book of memoirs of survivors of the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia. Both short and interesting reads, but nothing to write home about. Oops.

Taking a break from non-fiction, I then read Barrel Fever by David Sedaris, who consistently makes me laugh out loud and inspires me to try more satirical writing. Following that was a short book that sparked an interest in me that I didn't expect: Ben Franklin's autobiography. Short and frank, I found myself wanting it to be longer or more complete.

A book that was perfect for being in the tsunami-affected region was "Krakatoa", by Simon Winchester. A truly interesting event in history that I enjoyed learning about very much. Did you know that the shock wave of Krakatoa's volcanic explosion rippled around the earth 7 times?

Back on the Cambodia tip, I read "The Lost Executioner" by Nic Dunlop, which was about his search the commander of Tuol Sleng, the famous Cambodian death prison during the Khmer Rouge reign. I have a fascination with modern Cambodian history and plan to read a Pol Pot biography soon.

Just tonight I'm celebrating the finish of a book that is sitting unread at home in hardcover form: "Collapse" by Jared Diamond. I read his Pulitzer Prize winning "Guns, Germs and Steel" a while back and said that it made me smarter than any book I'd ever read before - particularly regarding the creation of civilization in the last 10,000 years. Collapse is equally as informative and focused on what has undone civilizations in the past. I would recommend this book for travelers interested in environmental conservation issues. Smart guy that Diamond- I'm a fan.

Just last night I bought "1776- America and Britain at War" by David McCullough. The abrupt and pre-war end of Ben Franklin's autobiography whetted my appetite I'm sure. Sachi also bought "Under the Banner of Heaven" by John Krakauer, which is about the creepy side of mormonism. I'm sure l'll read that too.

If anyone is looking at these books and saying "I know some books Lee would like AND would be popular enough to find around world" please do let me know.

We're super-excited to be hooking up with a couple of good friends from Canada tomorrow. Kris Krug and Robert Scales have been in China for a few days on business and have come to Thailand to unplug for a while.  As luck would have it, we have no plans, so we're heading back to the beach (Ko Lanta even) with them.  Life sucks these days.

Along with being good friends, they happen to both work for or run companies that make this web site possible.  Robert runs Rain City Studios, who did the design of this site and Kris works for Bryght, who hosts the technology (Drupal) that runs the site.  Both companies are TwinF sponsors and have been beyond-the-call-of-duty people to work with. Here we are expressing our love on the night before we left on the trip.

I must profess too that hanging out with these guys is going to be, um, interesting.  Case in point... Kris is trying to start a movement where travelers take pictures of themselves naked on top of the wonders of the world.  Here he is on the Great Wall of China (PG-13). Yikes.  Don't plan on seeing me participating, dear reader.  Really though, it's going to be a blast to hang out with these guys.

Feeling Old on Khao San Road, originally uploaded by LeeLeFever_TwinF.

There is a famous street in Bangkok called Khao San Road which is known as the "backpacker ghetto". It has cheap rooms, cheap food, lots of bars and hence, lots of backpackers.

Before we arrived in Bangkok for the first time, people said "Go see Khao San, but don't stay there". Being you can't get there by train and Bangkok traffic is a joke, we didn't make it to Khao San Rd. until today (our 3rd visit to Bangkok).

I'm really glad we're not staying there. Something that I've learned about my travel style is that I don't want to be surrounded by other travelers. Seeing other westerners in a secluded temple in Kyoto takes something away from the experience for me. I'd prefer to feel like the only foreigner in a place that no one can find. When I look at Khao San road, I see the opposite of that. It's wall-to-wall backpackers, strutting around with their day-old dreadlocks, sunburned cheeks and too-cool-for-school attitudes. Though we carry a backpack, it is abundantly clear to us that we don't identify with the average 20 year old unkept-and-proud backpacker. It seems that the badge of honor among backpackers is to appear that your lodging does not have a shower. It also seems that Khao San road is as much about travel fashion and looking cool for other backpackers than anything else, and I'm over it. And yes, I am perhaps jealous that I'm not that young anymore and realize that I sound even older.

If I were 20, though, I'd love Khao San Rd. and would be right there with them. But as a 32 year old traveler with a backpack, I can't help but wonder if the Bangkok they experience happens without the company of 15 other people wearing a "Same Same But Different" t-shirt.

Back In Bangkok, originally uploaded by LeeLeFever_TwinF.

Well, the Japanese adventure is over and our budget is happy to be back in SE Asia. Japan- what a highlight.

It is nice to be back in Thailand- the land of succulent pineapples, cheap lodging and constant summertime.

Unfortunately, I was quickly reminded of a part of Bangkok I could do without. Twice tonight I saw people parading around the city streets with elephants (above) offering rides and pictures. It's a spectacle the first time, but thereafter the sight grows more and more sad. I've ridden an elephant before in Sri Lanka- in the jungle and through a reservoir, so I can only be so critical, but I HATE to see them in the traffic of a busy downtown street. You can just see the weariness in their eyes.