Hi TwinFers, glad to hear you're making your way to the Czech Republic ... after all, what vagabonding freewheeler could flit past a place called Bohemia? Prepare for the onslaught of that lard-rich hearty fare so popular in Central Europe (hearty? probably named such because of the main internal organ it'll attack); hire a bike and check out the streets and forests above the town centre (where the slick touro veneer hasn't yet been applied); enjoy $1 mugs of pilsner, if you pick your pub right; get sold tickets to an orchestral performance by a dude dressed as Mozart; gasp at the Scooby Doo-style Jewish cemetery, replete with bodies stacked nine-high and those eerie sinking tombstones; grab a photography exhibition (I think Jan Saudek and Yann Arthus Bertrand might still be showing); and test the limits of your soul -- and stomach lining -- with an evening's absinthe-fuelled revellery at the Marquis de Sade bar (no, calm yourselves, it ain't an S&M club).

HOWEVER! If you wanna see the real Czech idyll -- perhaps Prague as it was ten years ago -- get on down to Cesky Krumlov, a fun three-hour bus ride to the south. I'll leave the description to your imagination ... would hate to spoil a happy ending.

:9)